What Type of Computer is Right for You?

Trying to figure out if you need a tablet, desktop — tower, desktop — mini, laptop, etc…?

First is to ask yourself how you are going to use it?

  • Does it need to be mobile?
  • How much processing power does it require?
  • How much graphic processing power does it require?
  • How long do I plan on using it?
  • Do I want Apple or non-Apple environment?

Some of these are very black and white questions. Some of these will depend on the price you pay for the feature, OR what features are mutually exclusive. This is where someone like me (or a geeky friend) is really helpful.

Mobility normally equals less ability to update and more cost? Normally, a big old desktop tower design will be the least expensive for the most performance.

If you are looking at a tablet, the most significant feature to consider is the operating system. Something that uses Android or iPhone OS will draw significantly less power and therefore can be mobile without hookup for some time. The trade-off is processing power. A Nook or Kindle for example is great at reading books and can do some limited internet surfing BUT the brain power is just not enough to edit pictures, handle most word processing programs, or even some websites. Tablets running a full computing operating system (i.e., Apple or Microsoft) typically can handle most computing tasks that are not for high-end users, but instead of power usage measured in a day or more….they typically are out of juice within a few hours or less.

Laptops normally cannot be updated inexpensively with more RAM memory as they age. I recommend clients always max out the RAM a particular laptop motherboard can handle at the time of purchase. Desktops are much more upgradable for both RAM memory, hard drive, or graphic processing. The one exception to this is mini-PCs. These are great options for the average low-end user (i.e., retiree that just wants to stay in touch with family and friends).

At this point, the real question is how do you use it? If you like to have 10 or more things open at the same time, you need to be very careful about getting a machine that will be too slow as it ages. With how software is updated, you will need more processing power to perform the same tasks as the device ages. If the device has an “integrated” graphics card, this means it “robs” processing power from the main computer processor in order to handle/work with graphics. A dedicated graphics card will keep the laptop or desktop from slowing down when working with pictures or gaming BUT increases the power demand greatly.

Computer specs and pricing will change constantly, so if you get a quote, and it is more than 2 weeks old, you will need to have it updated.

Don’t try to do this one on your own. This is where talking to a geek and making sure he/she understands how you are going to use the device can really help you pick the “right” computer/laptop/tablet for you!

Printers — Which One is Right For You?

There are many features you need to consider when looking at a printer. Start by answering the following questions?

  • Do I need/want color, or will black and white fit my needs?
  • How often do I print — some almost every day or go 2 or 3 weeks printing almost nothing and then use it?
  • How much do I print (i.e., # of pages per month)?
  • Do I require scanner and/or fax features?
  • Do I require duplexing (i.e., printing on both sides)?
  • What is the largest size of paper I need to print?
  • How long do I keep/plan to use the device?
  • Where am I putting it — next to the computer it is going to support OR some distance away?
  • Does the printer need to support multiple users/devices?
  • What am I printing — photos, documents, secured information that due to industry requirements cannot be wireless or cloud based printing service?

Once you have answered those questions, selecting a printer should be easy!

Let’s take paper size. Most printers cannot print more than letter or legal width paper. If you need something bigger, you will need a device with wide format features. HP has a nice multifunction device (MFD) that can handle up to 11×17 paper (https://a.co/d/3YWR5hA).

If you require fax and scanning features, then you need to consider only MFD hardware. Multiple options exist. Remember that these machines will be larger than a printer only device because of the scanning glass.

Duplexing — read the printer specs carefully! Some printers will say they can duplex but require you to take the 1st side printing paper out and put it back in flipped over for printing the 2nd side. This is very annoying….especially if you are printing multiple copies.

If you are printing something that cannot go through a network or cloud service, then make sure your printer is connected via a USB cable and check the settings to ensure the manufacture doesn’t upload a copy to their cloud to enable other features.

If you plan on keeping the device at least 3 years, stick to a major brand. There are some excellent printers in off-market brands, but the issue will be getting ink/toner at a reasonable cost as the device gets older. Talking about ink/toner supplies. Nothing wrong with off-brand consumables, BUT not all of them are created equal. Some will significantly decrease the quality of your prints….(especially if you are not a heavy user), therefore it takes a while to finish off an ink/toner consumable, will experience leaks that damage the printer.

Every printer normally states how many pages it is designed to print per month. Do NOT exceed this recommendation. Regular usage above the design will cause the printer to have an “early death”.

If a printer is not going to be located within 5–10 feet of the computer/laptop it is supporting, you will need something with an internal network card. This allows you to connect the printer via your Wi-Fi network AND allows multiple users/devices to use the hardware.

The big question for most people is laser or liquid ink? Typically, lasers cost more for the initial device and when purchasing the toner, BUT the cost per print is typically less expensive. Lasers will normally print much faster. If you typically have a month or 2 with no printing, I recommend the laser because quite of few of the liquid ink printers will clog if they are not used regularly.

Some options:

Give me a call if you need some help figuring out the “right” printer for you!

Which “Mouse” is Right for You?

There are more types of mice available to use than can possibly be used, but let me cover the ones you are most likely to use and why.

CDW has a great website covering the different mouse device types. Link: The 11 Different Types of Computer Mouse | CDW.

Some basic considerations that you should consider:

  • Your usage. The smaller the mouse, the more discomfort you will experience over time….especially when working long uninterrupted hours with repetitive motions.
  • Workspace configuration. If you don’t have much space or are “traveling” for your work, think about a trackball. This type of device doesn’t have to move when using the mouse.
  • Type of connection. The most secure form of connection is wired. Depending on your industry, your work may REQUIRE a wired connection. Bluetooth technology is pretty secure, especially considering it has a very short range, therefore a “hacker” would need to be within feet of you. It also uses very little power compared to other wireless technologies. Wi-Fi connectivity has a much longer range and good for someone who picks up their device and moves away from their computer/laptop. This has only a basic level of encryption (i.e., not the same as your Wi-Fi home/business network) and therefore may be ok for a mouse but probably should not be using something like a keyboard.
  • Optical vs. Mechanical. Laser mice/trackball typically have better sensitivity and control, which makes theme easier to use. Mechanical devices are not recommended if you have a lot of dust/hair/fur in your work environment.
  • Presentation controller. Make sure that if you present, you have a device to control the presentation without needing to go back to your laptop/desktop to control your slides.
  • Features. Some mice have a scroll wheel, which is very useful for scrolling through websites and other content. 2nd feature to consider is programmable buttons — if you do repeatable activities like opening a specific web, performing a specific macro in Excel, etc… — then programmable buttons are a must.

Here are some devices/brands as examples of the various features above:

The more expensive the mouse the more I would consider sticking to major brands, but for basic input devices save some money.

Bluetooth General Information

The most common question I get about Bluetooth technology is, “Is it safe to use next to the human body (i.e., headphones) for long periods of time”?

Yes. Bluetooth technology is nonionizing electromagnetic radiation (EMR). Here is a good article that lays out the medical information in easy to understand “non-doctor” format!

The next most common question is, “Is it safe data transfer”?

Yes. Bluetooth range is limited to 5–15 feet. The first layer of protect is this range. If you were going to “hack” the signal, you would need to be very physically close. Current Bluetooth technology uses encryption. Each generation of Bluetooth technology is able to use a greater form of encryption.

Why use it?

Multiple reasons…..

  • The limited range makes it difficult to hack.
  • The type of EMR involved is safe around humans. In fact, it is very hard for it to penetrate below the skin layer.
  • It is not transmitting openly and has its own form of encryption security.
  • Due to the frequencies involved in Bluetooth technology, it uses very little power compared to other forms of wireless technologies. This makes it a good source for things like keyboard, headphones, etc… connectivity. Bluetooth can transmit small files but not really a good choice, therefore most applications involving files are not setup to use it.
  • Newer Bluetooth devices can now connect simultaneously to multiple devices (i.e., one headphone connect to 2 cell phones and a computer).

Basic Branding Information

No matter how small your business, you should have a branding cheat sheet. This sheet should contain at least the following:

  • Fonts
  • Colors (noted in RGB, CMYK, HEX, and PMS formats)
  • Logos (in multiple formats and configurations)
  • Tag Lines
  • Company Values Statements

This cheat sheet should be provided to ANYONE providing social media, printed material, digital material, web content, etc… It should be updated regularly when new content is created. The branding cheat sheet should be used as a guide so that new content looks cohesive and works with the existing material.

I have a template I use to capture this information and can help you get started. Give me a call/text/email or reach me via my website’s contact me link and I will help make this happen.

Picture Files — When to Use What Format

For the average end user, whatever format a device or application/program creates as default is what you should use. Picture files will typically be much larger than any other format other than video/audio files. While there is some usage/feature overlap between file types, here are some of the basic picture formats or file types that can contain image content.

  • AI — Adobe Illustrator
  • BMP — Windows bitmap
  • EMF — Windows Enhanced Metafile
  • EMZ — Compressed Windows Enhanced Metafile
  • EPS — Encapsulated PostScrip
  • FPix, FPX — FlashPix
  • GIF — Graphics Interchange Format
  • FEIF — High-Efficiency Image File
  • JPG, JPEG, JFIF, JPEG-2000 — Joint Photographic Expert Group
  • RAW — Digital Camera Image File
  • PDF — Portable Document Format
  • PICT, PCT — Macintosh Picture
  • PNG — Portable Network Graphics
  • PNTG — Macintosh Paint
  • PSD — Photoshop Document
  • QTIF — QuickTime Image Format
  • SGI — Silicon Graphics Incorporated
  • SVG — Scalable Vector Graphics
  • TGA, TPIC — Targa
  • TIFF, TIF — Tagged Image File Format
  • WebP — Web Picture
  • WMF — Windows Metafile
  • WMZ — Compressed Windows Metafile
  • XML — Extensible Markup Language

I recommend the following usage guidelines:

  • Web or Digital Resources — JPG, PNG, or GIF
  • Printed Material — EPS or PDF
  • Clips from or to be inserted into Videos — JPG or PNG
  • Vector file formats should be used for print materials
    • If you don’t know which file formats are “vectored” then you need to contact a geek for help.
  • Raster file formats should be used for digitally used content
    • If you don’t know which file formats are “rastered” then you need to contact a geek for help.

Basic image editing software (i.e., red eye reduction, color corrections, make something transparent, etc…) is included in many devices or applications, but true custom image editing is a skill and art form that requires expensive applications, experience, and knowledge. Entire careers are involved in nothing but image editing. Today, almost all photographers include some image editing as part of their professional services.

For most users .JPG, .JPEG, BMP, PDF, PNG, TIF, and TIFF will be the formats they use.

Email — Best Practices and Etiquette

Have you ever been on an email storm? You know, where you receive 10 or more I agree, Yes, No Problem responses, and one person who writes a dissertation about how this is not something they personally like. Here are a few best practices that prevent this and other email related issues.

  • If the email has 10 or more people OR is likely to receive multiple responses that not everyone should see, do NOT fill in the TO portion. Instead, place all the recipients in the BCC option. Some email systems do not automatically show the BCC or CC options, so you may need to either change your default email settings OR select/expand the sending options on your email. Everyone will receive it with their name/email in the TO field (even though that is not what you used) and if they reply it will ONLY come to you…..even if they use REPLY ALL,
  • Do not send emails with attachments greater than 10 MB and staying below 5 MB is a good idea with non-corporate accounts (i.e., free email accounts used by the average user not from their employer). If you need to “attach” large files, upload them to a cloud storage location and provide only an access URL in the email. Emails that are too large will get “stuck” in cyberspace and never arrive at the recipient.
  • Remember to BCC yourself (i.e., personal account) when dealing with HR or some other work email that you will need if you are no longer employed by that company. An example would be an email stating reporting a conflict to HR about paid time off/vacation approval conflicts, your resignation email, or final listing of equipment distribution/turn-in on your last day.
  • If you work in a regulated industry with information handling requirements, all emails should have a disclaimer about how to handle if the recipient is NOT the intended person.
  • Use the read receipt and send receipt features. Most users never change the default email settings, which is to automatically respond with this information WITHOUT notify/asking permission of the recipient. Especially read receipt is a great way to know if someone has taken the time to not only receive an email but opened it and read it. Since this feature is typically “real time”, this is a great indicator of when you should call someone to follow up.
  • Do NOT use polling or other features that are specific to one type of email software. For example, the polling feature is great in Outlook but if you are sending it to anyone not using Outlook, they will not see the polling content. Typically, this means do not use these features when sending outside your company.
  • Use encrypted systems like DocuSign if you need to send or receive information with Personally Identifiable Information (PII). Standard email does NOT meet this standard. The state of California holds companies responsible for identity related damages, therefore emails with this content are a potential liability risk.
  • Remember that many users have various support staff who can see their email and/or calendar. Make sure you do NOT include information in subject/title lines that might cause conflicts (Ex. Information about termination of XYZ employee, Layoffs for tomorrow, etc….). Most companies have email/calendar privacy feature, but most users forget to use them, so assume their support staff will have access.
  • Do NOT send .zip files via email. There are ways around these limitations, but .zip files/folders cannot be scanned by most email antivirus tools, therefore the email will be blocked and never received by the recipient.

Use my contact me feature if you don’t have my information on speed dial if you have additional questions or situations I have not covered here

Using Public Wi-Fi

Most of us will travel and want to use public/free Wi-Fi at some point. Let’s talk about one of the most easy hacks bad guys will use to access your data. You walk into a coffee shop in a hotel or high tourist area and hook up to the local Wi-Fi. What you didn’t know is that a “bad actor” got their first and set up his own Wi-Fi signal. He/She will use a Wi-Fi name that looks legit and since they are sitting probably within feet of you it has the strongest signal. They even setup some “fake” term pages to have you agree to usage rules, just like you expect when you connect to a public Wi-Fi. Now here is the problem. They give you internet access but remember you have told your device that this connection is “trusted”. That means your security is probably not going to stop anything it does. So, unless you are using a VPN they can see every website you go to, every username you type/select, every password you enter, every credit card you use, etc….

How would you protect yourself? First, don’t use public Wi-Fi for financial transactions (i.e., don’t pay for something). Using it for surfing the web, watching a video, etc… is relatively safe. Next, really look at the “I agree” pages that come up. Does it have misspelled words, does the URL look like it is from a different website/company, are the details what you expect, etc….and most importantly, do NOT remember and automatically connect to this connection. Especially in a hotel restaurant, coffee house, or lobby, the bad guy will setup up shop and you “trust and remember his connection”. Then at night he/she will walk through the hotel with their device on, checking to see if anyone left their computer, smartphone, tablet on so it will automatically connect when he/she is in range. Now, when you are sleeping, and he/she can access your device without worrying about you noticing anything is happening.

Use a VPN if you can. A virtually private network (VPN) can best be described as your device (when on the internet) is on a highway system (like a car) and there are entrance/exit ramps all the time that go to specific website locations or addresses. When you use a VPN, it creates a tunnel or wall around your device, so none of those ramps are available except for the one you specifically want to use, nobody can drive up beside you and “see in your windows”, nobody can make eye contact with you because they cannot see in the windshield, etc… Sometimes VPNs will prevent a website from working properly (Ex. if you are watching TV via an app from your cable provider they need to know your physical location to be in compliance with various broadcasting agreements because some content it location specific therefore the VPN blocks with information transfer or provides false information that will prevent the website from functioning).

Have antivirus and a firewall installed and active. This will not prevent the bad guys from seeing your data but will help prevent any “care package” of malware they leave behind from working correctly.

Connect with your cellular connection instead of using free/public Wi-Fi. Your cellular connection has some built-in security features, and your phone technology is hardwired to ensure it can ONLY connect to a legitimate connection via cellular signal. Especially when on international travel this may be prohibitively expensive, so weigh the risk vs. benefits before using your cellular connectivity for data.

Use a password or network key protected Wi-Fi that has encryption when possible. Even if it is used by lots of customers, it should be more secure than something accessible to anybody within physical range that can answer the terms with “I agree”. An example of this would be a bed and breakfast that only gives out the Wi-Fi password to paying clients.

Pay attention to your account/device activity. If you start seeing transactions you didn’t authorize, emails sending you didn’t send, etc… make sure you run a “stinger” to check for a malware BEFORE you start using that same device to change passwords. If the bad actor has access as you start changing account passwords, he is going to know the new ones the same way he accessed the original passwords. Give me or some geek you trust a call if this is happening, and make sure you leave the device OFF until you get it checked out. Do this quickly, not days later when you have “time”. The more time they bad guys have access to your accounts, the more damage they can do.

Having Issues with Your Wi-Fi?

Do you have connectivity problems at your home or small business? Let’s walk through some troubleshooting to determine what is the difficulty and how to solve it.

First, go get your internet bill and review what level of service/speed you are supposed to receive. Keep in mind that you should have both a download and upload speed. The speeds mentioned will be the maximum, so your service will be less than these numbers, but it should be close in performance.

Next, go to where the internet comes into your building (i.e., where the device from Cox, AT&T, Spectrum, etc…) is plugged into the wall. Most likely, you received a “gateway”. That mean it is a modem (something that translates the single received into something a computer, laptop, tablet, smartphone, etc… can use) and a router (something that acts as a traffic cop and organizes the internet traffic so it doesn’t cause a “traffic jam” when multiple devices are on the internet at the same time). Most gateways or modems will have 4-5 wired Ethernet ports for usage. Plug in your laptop/desktop with a wire and go to a testing website. I recommend http://www.speakeasy.net. Do NOT use one provided by your internet service provider. They quite often give a bias result for their own product. A wired connection directly from the modem or gateway will be the best service and a good indicator of what you are receiving. If it is significantly lower than what you are paying for, contact your provider for maintenance.

Now let’s talk about that same speed test done in different rooms using different devices throughout your home or property. If you are using an old laptop, cell phone, or desktop to “test” your Wi-Fi, the problem may be your device. Older equipment have older Wi-Fi cards. Even if your router/gateway is putting out a strong, fast signal, they will only be able to use the maximum your device can handle. If you have areas that have only one or two bars of coverage, then your router/gateway cannot provide enough signal in those locations. This is very typically for users trying to access the Wi-Fi out by the pool, in a basement, or some location with lots of material interference like under a staircase. This is where the internet provider gateway just doesn’t do the job. SOLUTION: Turn off ONLY the Wi-Fi on the gateway and plug in your own router. If you have a router, upgrade it. Give me a call/text/email and this is something I can do for you, including recommending the replacement equipment.

Next, how many devices need the internet and what are they using it for? Just sending some emails is not a heavy usage. Watching videos from streaming services like Hulu or Netflicks is a completely different usage level. If you are talking 2 adults and 1 teenager household with a fairly technology connected lifestyle, you have probably 20–50 devices using the internet…many at the same time.

  • Smart TVs — at least 3
  • Smartphones — at least 3
  • Tablets — at least 2
  • Smartwatch — at least 2
  • Smart appliances (Ex: refrigerator) — at least 2
  • Home Security system (Ex. Video doorbell, wireless chimes, etc….) — at least 2
  • Wireless speakers — at least 2 systems
  • Outdoor smart lights, speakers, etc….) — at least 1
  • Smart media devices (Ex: Blu-ray player, DVD player, etc…) — at least 2
  • …and more

Make sure your router is designed to handle the load. Most households should upgrade to a mesh router. If you just added a “range extender” to an area with poor coverage, that location will be significantly slower than the area serviced directly from the gateway or main router. Mesh routers are designed to have a primary unit where the internet comes into the building and additional satellite units that ONLY require an electrical connect to “mesh” a seamless area of Wi-Fi coverage.

Remember, your internet usage will go nothing but up over time. Modem technology doesn’t change very often, but router technology does. This is why the gateway provided from your internet provider will not keep up with your needs. Give me a call and I can evaluate your current situation, recommend the right hardware solution, and set it up. I will even provide you with a single page summary of all the equipment and associated passwords.

Don’t forget that if you are working from home or have kids, you need to enable the Guest Wi-Fi network and turn off “sharing” between it and your primary Wi-Fi network. The guest network is what visiting family or friends should be using, and definitely that should be true of your kids friends. Keep the home network with a different Wi-Fi name and password. This minimizes the potential for your network to be compromised by an infected device with access.

Anyone Looking for an Alternative to Microsoft Office?

Microsoft Office and the Apple equivalent software package are robust monster programs that if you do these types of activities regularly or work with files created by these packages frequently — you need to purchase the application suite. If you are a small time user who just needs to be able to view, save, print, or make some modest edits without using complicated programming then there are multiple “free” options.

Probably the most useful and known alternative is Open Office Org. This package uses a very similar interface, and therefore you will not need “training” if you are already familiar with Office or the Apple equivalent. It can even change the default save to format to be compatible with something MS-Office users can open without issues. Just remember that anytime you convert files from one system/type to another, you should expect the more complicated features to need some cleanup. Open Office Org has programs for each of the MS-Office suite applications.

Some other options are: LibreOffice, Free Office, Caligra Suite, WPS Office, Zoho, Only Office, Office Online, and Google Workspace. Most of these are “online” applications only, so no internet means no ability to work. Many users have Google email and therefore already have the Google Suite available. Just go to the Google website, in the top right corner click on the nine dots. Now you will see a list of all the applications available from Google.

If you require something with LOTS of stock images and some basic to moderate photo editing features, take a look at Canva. You have to pay for the more advance features, but the “free” version is pretty extensive.

WARNING: Remember, nothing is REALLY free. Most of the time, if you read the user agreement carefully for the free applications on the cloud, you will find that any content you create they have a right to use. If you are working on sensitive or competitive information, these solutions are probably not a good idea.

Give me a call, text, email if you need some help figuring out the “right” alternative for your needs.